Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Home, Sweet Home
I'll be posting a few more entries this week and then wrapping the blog up. It has been a great learning experience and I'm glad I'll always have it (please, Google) as a way to remember my first trip to South Africa. It won't be the last.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Guest Blog by Noz: Most Incredible Nature Experience EVER
We hear there are black rhino several kilometers away. OK, pretty cool. So we go see them. Black rhino are endangered, only about 2,000 left in the world. They are beautiful. But, they just eat and sleep. No action again. Maybe we just won't see anything crazy-exciting while we're here. Maybe the Italians were right. Maybe 4 nights is "Oh, that's crazy" and 2 nights is all we need to see everything there is to see. We move on. There is word that a mother cheetah and her three female youngsters are spotted. I must say it is freakin' hard to find these elusive cats. They don't mind human presence, but trying to find them out here in the bush is crazy-difficult. We tried for hours every day to find these cheetah, but have come up empty-handed.
After several kilometers of driving in excitement and anticipation, we roll up to the area of where they were spotted. We see a decent-sized herd of impala--not really a big deal b/c there are so many around here. Van, our driver/tracker, makes a comment about the impala with a hint of implying that the cheetah may be ready to hunt. At this point, I am excite. I want to somehow herd the impala over to where the cheetah are, but I know I can't mess with nature like that. As we move on past the impala for another kilometer or so, we see the cheetah on a small termite mound/hill. A beautiful mom cheetah with her three young females. Just as we pull up, mom is "mobile." She trots down the hill and through the bush--headed toward the impala. The youngsters wait for awhile and eventually start following her, but well behind her. She is on the hunt! We go off-road and literally follow behind Mom. We see her crouching, stalking quietly toward the impala herd. She spots a young impala.
Then bam! She takes off like Usain Bolt on the juice. She chases the impala, knocks it down once. The impala gets back up and takes off in the other direction. Mom takes off again and after a 40 meter dash, she pounces on the impala, this time for good. She bites down on the impala's jugular and slowly puts it in a sleeper hold. At this point I have crapped my pants. This was a childhood dream come true. Cheetah is pretty much my favorite animal. I used to draw them all the time in 1st through 3rd grade. Maybe I'll start drawing them again in my free time.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Somewhat Random Observations & Notes
Chutney from a bottle is really big here. I love it. It's like a spicy version of Indian chutney. Kind-of. They use it like ketchup here. Need to try to find it in the U.S. when I get back. Maybe eBay.
Speaking of ketchup, it's not called "ketchup" here. It's tomato paste. And what we call tomato paste, they call spaghetti sauce. It all works out in the end, I guess.
I'm wondering if it's a good thing to have Internet in the middle of the bush whilst on safari?
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Focus Group Wrap-Up
Before I get to all that though, I just wanted to wrap up my thoughts about my focus group research. I haven't had reliable access to the Internet for almost a week now, so I apologize again for the lack of updates. Ironically though, now that I'm in the African bush, I have wireless Internet! It's slow, but works. So, I'd like to update my last week in retrospect.
My final focus group session was last Friday in the township of Emalahleni, which is in Mpumalanga province right outside of Witbank. It's about a two-hour drive east of Johannesburg. It was a somewhat challenging last session due to the language barrier. Although the youth spoke English well, they felt it wasn't advanced enough to fully express what they wanted to share so we worked through an interpreter. It worked well, but took twice the time because everything was said once in Zulu by the youth and then interpreted in English. I had to cut some of my last questions due to time, but in the end, it was a very productive last session. The examples I received of real problems youth have faced and used MYMsta to help solve/alleviate were very powerful -- rape, drug addiction, physical abuse. I will be forever grateful to these youth for their honesty and openness. They really welcomed me into their lives for the brief moments I had with them and I am still humbled by their graciousness.
I just tried to upload a few photos I took with the youth and the youth centre coordinator, Yvonne, after the focus group, but it looks like my Internet connection is good, but not that good. Taking way too long to upload. I'll try again later.
Monday, August 17, 2009
Noz is here!
I've moved out of the cottage and we're now chillin' at the Holiday Inn. The nicest one you've seen in your life! It's like a luxury hotel here. (But still the cheapest I could find in the Sandton area. Luxury hotels are a dime a dozen around these parts.)
Now that we're at the hotel, we have limited access, so I will try to update the blog as much as I can while we're here. We leave for our safari Wednesday morning and can't wait!
Friday, August 14, 2009
Orange Farm Focus Group
Yesterday I had my third focus group (out of four) in Orange Farm. It is the largest township/informal settlement in South Africa, located about an hour southwest of Jo-burg. No one really knows how many people live here, but it's probably somewhere between 300,000 and 500,000. It's gigantic. (Try typing in Orange Farm, South Africa, in Google Maps or Earth and you'll get some idea of its size.)
The participants in this group were a bit older than in my past ones and because Jo-burg has an interesting culture all its own, it was interesting to hear the differences in how they use their mobile phones and MYMsta. However, there were still a lot of similarities and I'm starting to reach what is called "theoretical saturation" in focus group research. Basically, I'm hearing the same things over and over with the different groups. This is good because it means there are some conclusions and recommendations I can make knowing the opinions of users are on my side. Here is a photo of me with some of the young people from the focus group.
After the focus group, an amazing thing happened. Without any qualifications whatsoever, I judged a dance competition! Not quite sure how it happened, but I had quite a lot of time to just hang out at the Y-Centre afterwards because my dear driver, who also took me to Free State, had other LoveLife travel duties to attend to and was picking me up at 5 p.m., which is when I've been finishing up. However, since the participants were a bit older, I didn't have to wait for them to get out from school and walk to the centre, so we started earlier. So, I had this time and, since the centre was bursting with activity, I just made my way through the facilities/grounds, stopping to chat with people and play with kids there. Here are some boys I met outside. They were a bit shy (especially the one on the right) and could barely speak English, but they could strike a pose! One thing that really struck me was the first boy's clothes. They were pink and white, and meant for a girl, but they were just warm clothes to him.
There was a dance class going on in the room I held my focus group in after I left, and I stayed there to watch the girls get down! And get down they could. The youngest of them was about six, the oldest probably 11, and they were are so adorable. I would clap and tell them how wonderful they were -- some of them would get so shy while others would revel in the attention, but each would just smile so brightly. It really warmed my heart. Their smiles were just so beautiful that I could almost look past their tattered clothes and bare feet.
After staying for a bit, I went back outside and talked to a couple of men who were outside on the basketball court. They seemed fascinated by America and asked lots of questions. Do you have these kind of shacks in America? Can you give me advice to help me find a job? What are you doing here to help people in Orange Farm? These were all hard questions to answer, but I tried my best.
All of a sudden though, the group of dance-class girls ran to me and took my hands, pulling me and saying, "Come with us, come with us!" I went and their dance teacher, who couldn't have been older than 18, informed me that I was going to judge an informal dance competition for them. It was really fun, but I tried to get out of choosing just one group to win! I really didn't want to choose, but the teacher made me do it. In the end, I went with the youngest two girls who danced together. Here they are.
As I asked to take these photos, all of them crowded around me to see themselves in the digital viewfinder, and started asking me questions, touching my hair, hugging me and holding my hands. Their affection was so genuine and contagious, and I just melted.
I kept thinking that these sweet, innocent little girls are just like my precious nieces, Sasha and Kailee. They just want to be loved and deserve every opportunity in the world. But, the road ahead just seems so difficult for them and the injustice of that really hurts. There is hope though. I have great hope for these girls and their families, and that's why I'm here.
My final focus group is in Witbank tomorrow in the province of Mpumalanga.
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Kudu Biltong = Antelope Jerky
The first kind I had was at Gwen's aunt's home this past weekend (I know, I still owe you all a post about that). Here's a photo. This was fairly fresh, smoked (pretty sure that's an oxymoron) beef biltong. The outside was jerky-ish while the middle was like the texture of prosciutto, but thicker. You pick your own piece off a rack and then the shopgirl/boy shaves it up for you a la fancy deli meat and drops it into a brown paper bag like this. Not very photogenic, but oh-so-good!
Free State Focus Group
The Youth Centre in the province of Free State is in Kutloanong, a township/informal settlement in a rural part of South Africa. Basically, this means a large mass of what South Africans call "wood shacks," though they're really usually made of tin from what I've observed. Just pieces of found materials and old tin, and that's all. All of them are tiny or small, almost always perfectly square or rectangle. Right next to each one, or maybe every other or so for those who must share, is a similar structure, though taller and much narrower. These are usually outhouses. Many of these people live without running water or even electricity.
I had another successful focus group, and feel really blessed all is going well so far. The participants were wonderful today and have really cemented the fact that LoveLife's MYMsta social network is a really powerful tool. They all find it so valuable. There are a few things that can be improved though; I hope to shed light on them through the voices and opinions of these youth.
I got to spend more time today talking to the youth after the focus group, as well as walking around the township a bit. So many little kids running after our car as it passed, smiling and waving. It was heart-breaking to just wave excitedly back, and not stay and play with them all evening. I was almost overcome with emotion a couple times during the day, just wishing I could do more to help these kids realize their big dreams and ease the constant struggle to thrive that they face each and every day. Sometimes the township is a joyous, energy-filled place, but is also wrought with violence, crime, hardship and pain. Today was a day I will never forget.
Stay tuned as I'm going to try to add a few videos I filmed in Kutloanong in the next couple of days. For now though, here is a group photo we took after the discussion. Tomorrow I'll be heading to Orange Farm, another township about one hour southwest of Jo-burg. We passed through it tonight and it is immense.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
World Cup-Crazy
When I was in Cape Town the past couple of days, the World Cup seemed to be everywhere. Here it was, in the windshield of my cabbie's car with the stadium being built for the Cup in the background. Granted, it's somewhat-everywhere in Jo-burg, but in Cape Town it seemed much more in-your-face. It made me really excited for South Africans here. They will have a great opportunity to share Africa with many, many people from around the world, who will then share it with others. I hope they take time to discover all the beauty South Africa has to offer with its scenery and its people. Here are some photos of Green Point stadium, which is smack-dab next to the ocean. It will make for some beautiful shots during the tournament.
It's a little scary though because, from my experience, there seemed to be only a few two-lane roads going to the stadium. Obviously, traffic will be a nightmare. Not sure anyone will care though. It's the World Cup, after all. And, as you can see, the stadium is not quite finished yet. But, have trust. They'll get it done!
I wish I could come back next year to be here for all the excitement. I had to settle for buying my nephew, Alex, a World Cup 2010 T-shirt.
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Langa Focus Group
I had nine youth come, which is great. For focus groups like this, anywhere from 6-10 is good. The youth were really inspiring, energetic and wicked-smart. They gave me great feedback on MYMsta and thoughts/ideas I think LoveLife will appreciate. I had such a good time meeting them all. Below are a few photos of a couple of youth who participated in the group. They use a small radio studio LoveLife has set up to teach teens how to produce their own radio pieces. I also took a few photos of younger kids playing foosball with another one keeping score for a ping-pong match.
A couple of them asked when I was coming back, and I really wished I could tell them I was. Maybe someday...
Somewhat Random Observations & Notes
Learning some colloquialisms. Instead of saying "blah, blah, blah" or "etc., etc.," to cut short what could be a long list of things while talking, people here say "what, what, what". I love it and have started saying it myself. Try it. It's fun.
Monday, August 10, 2009
I <3 Cape Town
I really like Cape Town. Jo-burg is a great place too, but just a bit intimidating for the foreigner. I like that I can travel alone more at night here and feel comfortable doing it. It's also just a gorgeous place with very friendly folks.
When I went shopping at the Red Shed Craft Workshop at the V&A Waterfront yesterday (I took the ocean photo above there, right across the street) I spent about 30 minutes talking to a word-turning artist, Ken. He makes lovely pieces, like bowls, vases and other decorative things by carving local and indigenous woods like yellowwood (South Africa's national tree) wild olive and yellow stinkwood. The way he does it is almost like pottery. So beautiful and the perfect unique souvenir from my time in South Africa. My favorite ones were made from wild olive, so I bought two small pieces. They are truly one-of-a-kind and I felt really good buying them from such a kind person and wonderful artist.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Somewhat Random Observations & Notes
Roobios is an African herb they use a lot as a spice, healing agent and tea. It is so good. I'm obsessed and drink about five cups a day. Apparently it has five times the antioxidants of green tea (not that I'm giving it up), and it's naturally caffeine-free. Love it.
There are Filipinos in South Africa! :) I'm staying with Gwen (one of my colleagues) at her aunt's home in Pretoria (suburb about 30 minutes north of Jo-burg) for the weekend. Her aunt is Filipino. A full post about it later!
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Tomorrow's Another Day
Working with a NGO, it's difficult to ask for much when you know they're restricted in terms of both resources and time, and you may not be their highest priority at the moment. They are all wonderful people and are helping me coordinate my focus groups for next week as much as possible, but it's still falling on me to do a lot of coordination. And it's a bit daunting to recruit teenagers for these groups in four locations all over South Africa when I barely know how to pronounce the provinces they're in. So, a couple of times today, I thought to myself, "Why did I think this would be a good idea again?" I have to remember though that I'm here precisely because LoveLife doesn't have the resources and time to do this work, though it could really help improve their mobile social network and communications -- and therefore, help prevent HIV among young people here. Having this kind of data could really help improve their chances of getting better grant funding.
I did make some progress today though. I finally nailed down the locations and days I'll be doing the groups. Ideally, this would have been done before I even came (!), but because I just got my South African study approval, etc., I am happy it did happen today.
Here's my schedule for the focus groups next week --
Tuesday: My first group will be in the Langa township near Cape Town (I'll be flying there Monday to see a bit of the city beforehand since it's a public holiday, of course! Less time for me to do the groups!)
Wednesday: Second group in a rural part of Free State province. A driver will take me there straight from the airport when I get back from Cape Town. It's about a two-hour drive from there.
Thursday: I'm back in J-burg to do another group in the Orange Farm township south of the city.
Friday: I head to Witbank, another rural area in the Mpumalanga province.
Is this humanly possible? Four focus groups in four different South African towns/cities in four days? We'll find out. The hardest part will be recruiting and getting youth to the locations and engaging them in a meaningful discussion about how and why they use this mobile social network, and how it can be improved. Luckily, this is a MOBILE social network, so I do have all their phone numbers and can text them too. I hope to have kids lined up tomorrow.
I'm was feeling a bit defeated earlier and am still pretty freaked out because of everything that needs to be done, but tomorrow's another day. I am hopeful it will all come together.
Somewhat Random Observations & Notes
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Ethics Approval
Thanks to everyone for the support and kind words over the past several months as I waited to get this piece of paper. Of course, I already have an amendment to make to it because I am adding different locations within the country (I originally was only going to do the research here in Jo-burg), but now that I have approval it makes that easier too.
The Cottage
You can imagine how it's an ironic place to live while doing this work though. Only about ten miles from here is one of the largest informal settlements or "townships" in Jo-burg called Alexandra. If you've read The Kaffir Boy, which is an autobio by Mark Mathabane, that is where it takes place. You should read it if you haven't yet. (But, don't use the word "kaffir" ever, it's like the "N" word in South Africa.)
Many of the youth I am working with only see homes like this from outside the tall, cold, concrete walls that surround them all. This is one of the most striking observations I have made here. The almost-obsession with security. In addition to the walls, there are electric fences above the walls. Alarms. And guards. Lots of guards. Two sets you must go through on my street alone. I'm told much of it is not really needed, but was built right after apartheid "just in case." But, why is it still around then, I wonder? And how long will it be?
I find it so sad. It creates physical distance and that's isolating. More than that though, it makes you feel like you shouldn't trust a soul here... and that's just so far from truth. The people I have met here are incredibly lovely, lovely people. So friendly and welcoming, and truly the bright spot of my stay so far.
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Kailee is here!
I'm here AND I have Internet!
Not sure if this has changed really, but since I've been asked by several of you if I would be chronicling my time in South Africa via a blog, I thought I'd give it another shot. And I'm kinda happy that I won't be here long because I'm not sure of how good a blogger I'll be. But, here goes!
So, I'm in Jo-burg. I finally have Internet at home that I know I can use without being charged an arm and a leg. No one really has broadband/high-speed Internet at home here yet because it's so expensive. Web usage usually takes place on cell phones, which brings me to my research here. Most of you know that I am here to conduct focus groups with South African youth about MYMsta, the world's first mobile social network working to prevent HIV/AIDS. It's run by LoveLife, an NGO here, that is responsible for a multifaceted, national HIV/AIDS prevention campaign targeted at youth. You can learn more about them here: http://www.lovelife.org.za/.
Getting my research off the ground from concept to reality has proved challenging so far. I've been working on human research ethics applications since the beginning of the year and am still having some issues getting approval. I need this before I begin speaking to youth, so it's critical that it happen within the next few days. I've had good meetings with the folks in charge with media and communications here though, and they are really helping me get a handle on coordinating the groups. They even want me to travel to different parts of the country to do the research, which is really exciting. We'll see what happens, but I may be going to visit rural areas around Cape Town and Durban, as well as the province of Mpumalanga to do focus groups next week. I'll keep you updated!
